harriet's m36 (sorta) feldbluse pattern accuracy

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moses
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harriet's m36 (sorta) feldbluse pattern accuracy

#1

Post by moses » 27 Oct 2005, 19:17

* special awesome note: while writing this post i noticed that harriet's now sells patterns for trousers too! whee! i'll probably be buying one of those soon, it's too tempting.

since a bunch of people have asked me about this in a bunch of different threads and PMs, i figured i'd start a definitive thread on it.

preface:
a little company, in connecticut i think, sells sewing patterns for m36 and m44 (and now a couple varieties of pants!) feldblusen.
http://www.harriets.com/wwiipatterns.htm
i bought the m36 patterns and have made some observations on their accuracy. they have a bunch of issues.


i'll try to list them all:
- lower pockets are wrong for m36-40 style (they should be a "bellows" design but are a "saddlebag")
- liner is likewise wrong for m36-40, but right for m42-43
- pattern describes only a 5-button front, but this is obviously easy to change
- shoulder boards don't seem the right shape to me
- sleeves seem too straight up and down and not enough "c" shaped (this is a complaint about sturm tunics too)
- upper pockets aren't shaped quite right (they arent slanted down toward the middle of the tunic)
- doesn't offer a proper pointed and taller collar for an officer-style tunic, even though there are other optional items in the pattern designed for officers
- offers the non-pleated m42-43 style pockets but doesn't offer the m43 style square pocket flaps
- the skirt seems quite too long to me, although this may be partly due to my own body shape. i had to shorten it by 7cm to fit me accurately.
- rear of skirt is not higher than the front of skirt as it should be
- eyelet holes on the front are too low i think


i've started modifying the patterns to fix these things. done with the pockets mostly, and am currently working on the sleeves and the body. those m36-40 liners look complicated as hell so i'm sure that'll take me a while.
some pics of the original pattern and my modifications:
Image
Image


in summary, if you want to use these patterns to make an m42 style tunic with scalloped pocket flaps but without pocket pleats, and you don't mind it looking a bit too big with "tube" arms like a sturm tunic, then go for it. *
otherwise, these patterns, out of the box, don't quite cut it.
hopefully i can change that, though, and offer some new designs that will be much more accurate.

edit:
* in light of the problem listed below combined with the others, i am revising my summary to say that if you want to make a feldbluse for reenacting and not a halloween party, you probably shouldn't use these patterns at all. unless you're willing and able to modify them yourself first. if you happen to have the right size body to fit the pattern as drawn, you might be ok, but i think those chances are low.

more problems:
- the neck hole seems awful large (its far too big for me and i fit a "medium" sturm m36 collar pretty well) and there are no other sizes for it provided. maybe an experienced tailor would have no problem with this, but it threw me off. this is important because german uniforms were designed to use a closed collar most of the time and it's supposed to be snug around the neck.
Last edited by moses on 03 Nov 2005, 23:17, edited 3 times in total.

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Wilibald
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#2

Post by Wilibald » 27 Oct 2005, 20:09

Thanks Moses, this thread was a must! I am no tailor so I cannot really comment on the technical aspects of your modifications, and people like yourself and Daviken have the skills and knowledge required to examine those patterns for all of us.

I would however be tempted to say that the patterns are probably not a total disaster since it serves as a basis for your corrections: in fact, it is surely easier to modify non accurate details on an existing pattern than to draw one from scratch... So IMHO, based on your observations, Harriet's stuff should taken for what it is: a basis for developping accurate patterns. Let's all hope that , MAYBE, their trousers are well done...

Wilibald


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#3

Post by daviken » 28 Oct 2005, 10:21

Dear Moses,

I have myself bought the pattern (tunic+pants) from Harriet. I have not received yet, but as soon as get it I will make my own critic. About the shape of the sleeve, Sturm did well on its former repro, no the quality is decreasing.

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moses
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#4

Post by moses » 28 Oct 2005, 16:08

wili: yeah i think harriet's put together the pattern with theater productions in mind, or something, but not reenactors. the pattern seems to have been done by someone with good tailoring skills but with only average knowledge of third reich uniforms.

davi: i'm very interested in your opinions on those patterns. i still feel like a novice myself, and i'm curious what someone like you, who has made some very nice tunics on your own, has to say about the patterns.

i have a fairly new sturm m36 myself and i see a few problems with it, mostly related to simple sizing issues. as far as i know, they only sell 3 sizes, and that just doesn't allow a proper fit like the german army would have. there's no option for longer or shorter sleeves, different waist sizes, etc.

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#5

Post by daviken » 28 Oct 2005, 17:22

Moses,

Sturm propose the following sizes here in Europe: 48, 50, 52, 54, 56 and 58

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moses
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#6

Post by moses » 28 Oct 2005, 19:21

well, that's an improvement...
i guess it depends on what retailer you buy from.

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#7

Post by daviken » 28 Oct 2005, 19:56

For the M36 you can even have small size 46!

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#8

Post by daviken » 02 Nov 2005, 17:26

I recieved the pattern today, let's check it!!

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#9

Post by Wilibald » 02 Nov 2005, 17:55

Daviken - I ordered the pattern for the M44 feldbluse on the very same date... I should receive it soon, then I'll mail it to you right away!

I cannot wait to see your critics of those patterns! Thank to the gods for the chance we all have to have both you and Moses on this forum!!

Wilibald

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moses
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#10

Post by moses » 02 Nov 2005, 20:59

just got my trouser patterns too!
gonna have to do a lot more research on those hosen to critique these properly
and shrink them to half-size or something because apparently i'm a midget compared to most people

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#11

Post by daviken » 02 Nov 2005, 23:57

yes they seems to be large and the jacket too. I would out during 2 weeks besause of my bloody job, when i'm back I will buy some carbone paper to transfer the pattern on carton paper and make some trials with some crap fabric.

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#12

Post by Toivo » 09 Feb 2006, 18:09

I ordered and just received patterns for tunic and trousers too because it's easier to edit existing patterns than to create from zero.
Has anyone of you who edited these patterns time to add some new hints and tips? Perhaps I might overlook some errors otherwise
:roll:

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moses
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#13

Post by moses » 09 Feb 2006, 20:08

i think if you want to make proper changes to the feldbluse pattern, you just need to look at my list up above. i can only think of a couple more things... the rear darts by the rear eyelets should be taller, and i think all of the darts on the front side should be wider in order to take in the waist on the tunic more.

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#14

Post by moses » 09 Feb 2006, 20:56

oh and i'm finally making some progress on my patterns
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#15

Post by odinfish » 20 Aug 2006, 04:33

Greetings Moses! I'm interested in your progress on this project. I have been looking high and low for an accurate pattern as well. Whereas I have the means to begin experimenting in order to create my own uniforms, spending the money for a set is beyond my budget at the moment. Also, have you had a chance to look over the trouser pattern offered by Harriets?

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