how to make an Einheitsfeldmütze

[m1steelpot]

Newton sent me the patterns-

Oh, and though it says "New England" on my thing, I am currently in PA at college.

[Dare Furor]

What brand and nomenclature thread are you using for your projects?

Dare Furor
<uuuUkuuu>

[Gotrick]

Can anyone send me the patterns? the link is dead

[Blasus]

Bump for new pattern link

[m1steelpot]

I have the plans, PM me for them. In your PM's please supply your email address. I need to attach the ZIP file as an attachment through email.

Thanks!

-Paul

[mak4570]

Unfortunately, the link for the zip file for the pattern is no good. Does anyone have a working link, or the zip file?

[bekkenbauer]

Someone have a link for einheitsfeldmütze patterns?

[silent_shade]

Hello everyone! Here are the first three. Two sides and first flap. Be careful to print them and then measure each piece with it's own ruler. For sewing you'll need to draw new patterns with measurements from prints.

[silent_shade]

Second flap, top and bill

[silent_shade]

Now some instructions on the matter of sizes - girl's style.
1. Measure the circumference of your head. This number (in centimetres) will give you your size (59, 61, etc.)
2. Divide this length by two. This will give you *effective* length of the side piece (bottom length). It is dashed red-black line in the picture. Note, that here I have omitted all seam allowances. Whatever your size is, front and rear heights of the side piece stay more or less the same as is the pattern. The same with the upper length - it is always 2-2.5 cm longer than the lower *effective* length. In the picture the total upper length is dashed black-white line, and additional 2 cm are dashed green-white.
3. The upper/short length of flap may stays the same, while the bottom/long one needs to be adjusted. Add about 5 cm to the effective side length and you'll get it. Height of the flap stays constant (given that the height of side stays too).
4. The most difficult part - top. The *effective* circumference of the top piece is twice the *effective* upper length of the side (black-white line). To adjust the top you need to change it's rear part rather then front - see the red line on the second picture. To increase the side you can make it longer and/or wider; to decrease - make shorter/narrower. I cannot give any recommendation here, you have to try this and that. Just don't forget to adjust the circumference.
4. now - very important part - don't forget about seam allowances! For the first time make them little bigger than usual. And don't be lazy, make your first M43 out of paper, and only after that go to fabric.

[silent_shade]

This one is my first M43, by the way = )
Thanks to wonderful detailed and comprehensive instructions!

[Awsome_guy]

Hi everyone and great tutorial moses, its look like that this tread has turn out to be an how to make German headgear tread but it´s no tutorial for the side cap. So I will in a few day post a little tutorial for how to make an German side cap here if it is OK for moses?

[wehrmacht98k]

I really want to make this but the link to the patterns wont work

[WolfBaginski]

I'm glad I found this thread. There was a corrupted version of a zipfile floating around, but now I have usable images of the pattern.

I am planning to make one of the M43 hats for cosplay. So it doesn't need to be an exact replica. They're a distinctive sort of hat, more widely used than some purely military headgear, and any number of movies have used them. Different fabrics of course, and there are other influences such as the Japanese Army cap, but you can see echoes of the silhouette in Star Wars.

But a few things I noticed that I want to comment on.

Old sewing machines can be quite good. I am using my mother's old Singer 99, hand cranked. That's straight-stitch only, though there are attachments for things such as zig-zag stitching and buttonholing, when you look on places such as eBay. The machine needles haven't changed since the 19th Century, and the same for a few other parts such as the bobbin for the lower thread.

But these old domestic machines, while heavy, are still not meant for work such as stitching leather. I really mean that.

Also, it isn't a good idea to stitch over pins, as somebody suggested. If the sewing needle strikes the pin, it can be damaged. And a damaged needle doesn't work well. They wear out anyway, but if you blunt or bend the tip you will have to change it.

Interfacing is a special material used for stiffening fabric. If you look at many military items, such as a British respirator case, there's a sewn-in square of fabric strengthening where the buttons are sewn on. For other items there might be a strip of interfacing between the lining and outer fabric. It comes in different grades, and can also be "fusible": stuck in place using a hot iron. The big advantage over cardboard is that you can wash it, or get it rained on.

When I started on this sewing malarkey, I found Sewing for Dummies was a good starting point. There are plenty of more advanced books, and older texts available for free, or very little, as e-books. And there are methods for making patterns from existing clothing which don't need anything to be disassembled. There are also antique sewing patterns.

It takes a bit of hunting down, but you can find buttonholer attachments which make the keyhole buttonholes.

Ventilation eyelets: I've only found a couple of pictures that show them, but they look like a standard eyelet, maybe not the same size but what you might see for the buckle prong to go through on a webbing belt. The tools to fit them are not expensive, getting the right colour might be.

There can be all sorts of little tricks. Check YouTube. This video on hemming jeans tells you rather a lot about dealing with heavier fabric. http://youtu.be/aqkx34A0iaY

[saddler]

Good to see the plans above as I too was one of the people that was trying to find a work around for the corrupted zip file pattern/drawings.

Hoping to make up a Finnish M36 summer cap, from the same lightweight material as the Finnish M36 Summer Tunic....as there are LOTS of vendors & makers worldwide for good repro German uniforms, but not a lot out there for Finnish kit.